born... cried... survived... stayed out of troubles... moved... surfed... fell in love... published a couple of books... drove VW bus around the world... hitch-hiked around... surfed... founded zenzela... opened a guest house... woke up... surfed...

everyone is interesting in their own way...

experiences...

surf... waves... photography... outdoors activities... freediving... people... cultures... links between people and cultures... timing...